To test all of this I drove to a street called Steve Biko road (formerly Voortrekker str) in Pretoria North . . .
Read part two of my review.
Read part two of my review.
Eos M on steroids! Mamiya 50mm lens and two adapters |
The area is on the
outskirts of Pretoria and is a mixture of residential, light industrial and
retail. I feel relatively safe here and I like the 'look' of the place. There
has not been much development of late so it reflects quite a bit of the old
architecture mixed with more modern architecture and of course the
'modifications' subsequent owners made to the original buildings, sometimes
horrendous and often very colourful...unfortunately there were not many people about
on the days I chose to go there so I couldn't test my 'street people' skills
with my new Eos M. I will leave that test for a next installment of my ongoing
review of the Eos M...
Eos M and Ef 40mm f2.8 stm 'pancake' lens. |
Initially I wanted to test some lenses with the Adapter Ef to Eos M. I found a nice colourful building with a bit of shade to stand in so that I could see the LCD viewfinder clearly. The 40mm pancake has the same contrast and colour as the 22mm and is also very very sharp. It is easily handholdable even though it does not have IS. On the Eos M the 40mm pancake is equivalent to a 64mm lens.
Eos M and 50mm Mamiya MF shift lens |
Eos M and 22mm lens, handheld |
The 'toy' I really
wanted to test was my medium format Mamiya shift lens lens. On my Eos M it is
equivalent to an 80mm lens on the 35mm format. Thus a short telephoto but with
the added convenience of being able to shift left and right and up and down. In
theory a nice lens for architectural detail. I wanted to see how it would
perform on the Eos M.
It
is a bit more complicated in that the aperture is not automatic and one has to
focus with the lens wide open, do the necessary shifts and then stop down to the
chosen aperture, usually from f11 to f22.
On the Eos M the
Mamiya 50mm shift exhibits low contrast with some colour shift. One can easily
see the difference in the colour of the sky in the images of the 'doggy parlour' posted above, compared to the Canon lenses. But
with an increase in contrast and other tweaks in LR4, its not too far off from the
Canon 'look'. It is also not as sharp as the Ef lenses, although it is very
sharp on my Mamiya ZD digital medium format camera. But it is sharp enough on the Eos M and
I will use it. I bought a Photodiox converted from Amazon to be able to fit it on a Canon and it is even
'chipped' for focus confirmatio on my 5D2, I have not used it much but the R1000-00 price I had to pay to
import the adapter was a lot less than the price of a new 45mm Canon tilt and
shift at R13000-00! I thought it was worth a try. I need to do some more tests
on my 5D2 to see how it works and what the quality is like....but more of that
in a future post.
Perspective corrected with Eos M and 50mm Mamiya shift lens. |
Perspective corrected image with Mamiya 50mm shift |
No perspective correction, camera tilted up. 22mm lens. |
The
next part of my test was to see how the Eos M Auto Focus an Auto Exposure modes performed with the
22mm lens in the street under 'normal' shooting conditions and using the
Optical Viewfinder.
The OVF is not as
precise as the LCD nor does it show any settings or focus confirmation but its
close to a 'normal' dslr viewfinder and it is more steady than holding a
camera at arms length trying to focus and frame on a LCd screen. ther eis a 'beeb' when the camera has found focus so its quite simple to know when to release the shutter. Viewfinders of
some sort has been around since the beginning and it is a most elegant solution
to a problem. Why Canon has ignored the viewfinder is puzzling but if one looks
at other Canon consumer models it would seem that 'the viewfinder' or lack thereof is not high on
Canon's list of what makes a 'good' photographers camera. Outside in bright sun light a viewfinder is
also the best solution. But fortunately the Eos M has a hot shoe that can take
my Leica OVF that frames the 22mm lens accurately.
1/250 F8 Iso100 Flexizone Multi. Overall sharpness good for a grab shot and slow AF |
I chose specific Post Processing settings to give me the
'look' I wanted. I am not really one for saturated colours. For this next batch
of images made in Steve Biko road I reduced saturation by -40, increased
clarity to + 50 and generally overexposed the images to a point just before they 'clipped'. Because of the overexposure I also had to add 'black' to bring some
contrast back. Amazingly the Eos M ISO100 files could handle all of this even with the
very contrasty noon light.
1/250 F8 Iso100 Flexizone Multi. Once again an overall sharp image when viewed at 100% |
Full AF and exposure. |
I also
chose the 'scene intelligent mode' on my Eos M. This is the mode for 'dummies'
and very little input from the photographer is needed, allowed or necessary.
The camera does everything automatically and optimizes the exposure to obtain
'optimum brightness and contrast' by apparently 'analyzing ' the scene etc.
My reasoning was that the camera was probably
optimized for shooting like this as proven by the lack of controls that 'old
school photographers' normally used or burying them deep inside a menu system.
The camera will even decide where to focus...
1/250 F8 Iso100. FlexiZone Multi. Af points on box and poles in foreground but background acceptably sharp at F8 |
1/320 F9 Iso100. Flexizone Multi, focus point on pole in foreground but background acceptably sharp when viewed at 100%. |
Here I changed Af to single point on red roof. At f11 even foreground is sharp... |
1/250 f8 Iso 100. Once again focus points on poles in foreground yet background acceptably sharp even at 100%. continuous shooting mode as I waited for person in background to walk into the frame. |
1/350 f9 Iso100 Fexizone Multi. Good sharpness all over. |
I think the Eos M
passed this test with flying colours! I walked up and down Steve Biko street
for about two hours just photographing like I would normally do, except I
didn't have to concentrate on any of the usual settings, like exposure, focus and aperture
for depth of field or not. In other words I used it just like a 'point and
shoot', and it worked.
Back home in front of my monitor I could annalize the images at my leisure and see exactly where the camera had focused and which aperture it used.
Back home in front of my monitor I could annalize the images at my leisure and see exactly where the camera had focused and which aperture it used.
in the bright light of a sunny day the camera used ISO100 almost all
the time with the aperture around F8. In full sun it gave me fast shutter
speeds and at F8 the depth of field was tremendous, which is how I like to
shoot - lots of depth of field with sharp images.
1/250 f8 iso100. Flexizone Multi. Once again nice and sharp all over. |
People often ask me if shooting
manual is not more pure and authentic. I don't believe technical issues like
focus or exposure has got anything to do with ones vision. Its like
asking if manual shutter cocking or auto shutter cocking has a bearing on the
validity of the image. Who cares? Its just a simple technical process that can
be handled much faster and most often more accurately by the camera itself. Most cameras have manual setting s that can override the auto settings if one
wishes. Any competent photographer will also know when the camera will 'read' a
scene incorrectly and adjust for that. But for most of the average scenes
photographed by average photographers the camera will decide just nicely, thank
you.
.... and if you
don't believe me just have a look at the photographs above. Almost all the
settings were decided by the camera. All I had to do was frame and press the
shutter. And that's the way I like it, and I like the way the Eos M did it.
Part three, high ISO test can be found here...http://thelazytravelphotographer.blogspot.com/2013/05/eos-m-reviewhigh-iso-noise-tests.html
Regards, Ivan
Please also have a look at my portfolio here at . . .http://ivanmuller.zenfolio.com/
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